The Ultimate Basque Country Itinerary—5 Days in Bilbao & San Sebastián

The Basque Country is one of those places that gets under your skin. It has its own language, its own culture, its own rules about how food should be eaten and how life should be lived—and once you’ve spent a few days here, it’s very hard to go back to anywhere that doesn’t have a pintxos bar on every corner.

Two cities anchor it all. Bilbao—gritty, confident, transformed by a titanium museum that changed the way the world thought about what a building could do. And San Sebastián—curved bay, perfect beach, medieval Old Town, and a culinary reputation that cities ten times its size would envy. They’re about an hour apart by motorway. Between them lies some of the most beautiful coastline in Europe.

Five days is the sweet spot. Enough time to do both cities properly, take a couple of day trips along the coast, and still have room to sit somewhere with a glass of txakoli and do absolutely nothing for a while. This Basque Country itinerary is built around our own trip in September 2023, when we based ourselves in Bilbao with a car and did San Sebastián and the Gipuzkoa coast as day trips.

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Day 1: Bilbao—Arrive, Orient, Eat Everything

Arrive in Bilbao, pick up your rental car, and check in. Don’t try to do too much today—save your energy for exploring on foot and getting your bearings in the city.

Getting there: from Bilbao airport, the A3247 bus runs to the centre every 15–20 minutes; after that, the day is on foot.

Tickets: just the evening’s pintxo tour, if you’d like a guide (more below).

Morning—Artxanda Viewpoint

Start with the best possible introduction to Bilbao: the view from Artxanda Hill. Take the Funicular de Artxanda from Plaza del Funicular—it runs every 15 minutes and reaches the top in just three minutes. From up here, Bilbao makes complete sense: the river snaking through the city, the green hills closing in on all sides, and the estuary opening up to the sea. It’s a breathtaking way to start your first morning.

At the top there’s a peaceful park, a handful of authentic Basque restaurants, and a public swimming pool. It’s a beloved local hangout rather than a tourist attraction, which is undoubtedly the right tone for the rest of your trip.

Afternoon—Casco Viejo & the Ribera Market

Head down into the Old Town, known as Casco Viejo. It’s small and compact, with less going on than San Sebastián’s Old Town, but it’s authentically local—colorful buildings, narrow streets, Plaza Nueva with its elegant neoclassical arches, and Plaza Santiago in front of the cathedral. What we personally loved most about Casco Viejo was how real it felt: not overrun by tourists or filled with souvenir shops, but full of actual local life.

Before or after wandering, stop at Mercado de la Ribera, right by the river at the edge of the Old Town. The ground floor has a casual food court with about ten stalls—pintxos, pastries, local drinks—perfect for lunch. The rest of the market is fresh produce and fish, a great glimpse of everyday Bilbao.

Late Afternoon—Walk the Nervión

One of the most relaxing things you can do in Bilbao is walk along the Nervión River. Start from Arenal Park and follow the east bank along the tree-lined promenade. You’ll pass the Mercado de las Flores and reach the Zubizuri Bridge—a sleek white pedestrian crossing that leads you directly to the Guggenheim. It took us about half an hour from the Old Town. Save the museum for tomorrow, but walk past it and take in the exterior. The titanium cladding changes colour in every light.

Evening—Pintxos Crawl

Your first evening in Bilbao should be spent doing a pintxo crawl through the Old Town.

🤩Some of our favourites: La Olla on Plaza Nueva, Berton Sasibil in the Casco Viejo for the meat skewers, and Atseden in the downtown area for something slightly more modern. The rule is simple—have one or two pintxos and a drink at each bar, then move on. Don’t overthink it.

Day 2: Bilbao—The Guggenheim & the Coast

Getting there: on foot or by tram to the Guggenheim; Getxo and Plentzia are on metro line 1.

Tickets: the Guggenheim, on its own website or with the small-group tour we did (both below).

Morning—The Guggenheim Museum

Give the Guggenheim a proper morning. With its futuristic titanium design by Frank Gehry, it’s by far Bilbao’s most recognisable landmark, and since opening in 1997, it has played a huge role in transforming the city into a cultural destination. Inside, you’ll find rotating exhibitions of contemporary and modern art.

We’d strongly recommend joining a guided tour—many of the exhibitions are quite abstract and genuinely difficult to interpret without context. A guide makes it a completely different, much richer experience.

Before you leave, stop to see The Puppy—a 13-metre flower sculpture of a West Highland Terrier by Jeff Koons, covered in thousands of seasonal blooms just outside the entrance. We hadn’t heard of it before our visit and it instantly stole our hearts. Quirky, beautiful, and utterly Bilbao.

Afternoon—Getxo or Plentzia

After the museum, take the afternoon to escape the city slightly. Both Getxo and Plentzia are reachable by metro from central Bilbao—but a car makes it much more comfortable. Getxo has a charming harbor and Belle Époque architecture. Plentzia has a wide, calm sandy beach and shares a beautiful bay with neighboring Gorliz—perfect for families or anyone wanting to sit by the water after a morning on their feet in the museum.

If you’re feeling adventurous, book a tasting at Bodega Submarina Crusoe Treasure in Plentzia—the world’s first underwater winery, where wines are aged beneath the sea.

Evening—Back in Bilbao

Return to Bilbao for dinner. If you want a step up from last night’s pintxos crawl, La Palma, the restaurant at Bilder Boutique Hotel in the Old Town, serves Basque and Mediterranean food from breakfast to dinner.

Want all five days on two printable pages? Free PDF 👇

Day 3: The Basque Coast—Gaztelugatxe, Bermeo & Mundaka

Today you need the car. This is one of the most spectacular drives in the Basque Country—dramatic Atlantic cliffs, colorful fishing villages, and one of its most iconic sights. Take the coastal road rather than the motorway wherever possible. The journey is as much the point as the destinations.

Getting there: by car, about 40 minutes from Bilbao to Gaztelugatxe. Its car parks fill up between 10:00 and 16:00, so arrive early or park in Bakio or Bermeo; in summer, the A3517 bus runs there from Bilbao.

Tickets: Gaztelugatxe is free, but busy days need a timed ticket (below), or there’s the day tour from Bilbao.

Morning—San Juan de Gaztelugatxe

San Juan de Gaztelugatxe is a tiny islet connected to the mainland by a winding stone bridge and 241 steps, topped by a small chapel. It shot to worldwide fame as Dragonstone in Game of Thrones, but even if you’ve never watched the show, it’s one of the most dramatic sights in the whole of northern Spain.

Not driving? The Gaztelugatxe day tour from Bilbao

A guided day tour from Bilbao takes care of everything—transfers, timing, and a guide who knows the site inside out. Handy in high season, when the car parks fill up early. Check availability →

After crossing the stone bridge, climb to the chapel at the top. Legend says you should ring the bell three times, make a wish, and banish bad spirits. From up there, the views take in the Atlantic crashing below and the cliffs stretching in both directions.

Late Morning—Bermeo

A 15-minute drive brings you to Bermeo—colorful houses, fishing boats, a strong maritime heritage. Once a major whaling port, today it’s a great spot for seafood lovers. Try marmitako (a hearty tuna and potato stew), white tuna, or anchovy preserves. The Fishermen’s Museum in the historic Ercilla Tower is worth a quick stop, and La Tala viewpoint gives you sweeping panoramas of the dramatic cliffs and Izaro Island offshore.

Afternoon—Mundaka

Just next to Bermeo, Mundaka is a tiny fishing town with a massive reputation in the surfing world—home to Europe’s longest left-hand wave, drawing surfers from around the globe. Even if you’re not there to surf, it’s worth an hour of your time. The fishing port is perfect for a quiet coffee with a view, and the Santa Catalina chapel perched above the estuary has some of the best panoramas of the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve you’ll find anywhere.

Late Afternoon—Drive to San Sebastián

Head towards San Sebastián. The drive takes about an hour on the motorway. Check into your hotel and recover from the day with pintxos in the Old Town—your first taste of San Sebastián’s culinary scene.

Day 4: San Sebastián—La Concha, the Old Town & Mount Igueldo

San Sebastián is one of those cities that’s almost impossible to do wrong—but the right approach makes it unforgettable. Start high, work your way down to the sea, and let the evening take care of itself.

Getting there: on foot all day, so leave the car at the hotel: the Old Town and the centre are in the low-emission zone.

Tickets: the Igueldo funicular is paid at the station; for the afternoon, a guided pintxo tour (below).

Morning—Mount Igueldo

Begin at Mount Igueldo—a small hill at the western end of the city with one of the most famous views in Spain. From the top, you can see the whole city with its beautiful La Concha Bay. It’s a breathtaking way to start your first morning in San Sebastián.

Take bus 16 or 47 to Plaza del Funicular (or walk, depending on where you’re staying), then the funicular to the top. It runs every 15 minutes and the return ticket is €5.50 for adults (€2.50 for children up to seven). At the summit, pay the small fee to go up the tower—the 360-degree view from the terrace is the best in the city. There’s also a vintage amusement park up there that’s been running since 1925, which is worth a look even if you don’t use any of the rides.

Late Morning—El Peine del Viento & La Concha

From Plaza del Funicular, it’s a 10-minute walk to El Peine del Viento—contemporary iron sculptures set against the sea, a secluded little spot where you can spend a few minutes enjoying the fresh sea breeze and listening to the waves on the rocks.

From there, walk along La Concha. It’s 2.8 km back to the Old Town along two beaches and one of the most beautiful urban promenades in Europe. La Ondarreta comes first, then the famous La Concha beach itself—a kilometer of shell-shaped golden sand, calm water, and extraordinary views of the bay. Don’t rush this walk. At the end you’ll pass the Town Hall, originally built as a casino, and Alderdi Eder Park with its old carousel and palm trees.

Afternoon—Old Town & Pintxos

Spend your afternoon in the Old Town—Parte Vieja. It’s a small area with many narrow streets, a few shops, and around 500 bars and restaurants. Most of them are pintxos bars. This is where San Sebastián earns its culinary reputation, and an afternoon here is one of the great pleasures of any trip to northern Spain.

Our guided pintxo tour was in Bilbao, on Day 1. In San Sebastián we had the next best thing: a friend who was born and raised here sent us to the right bars with the right orders. Without a friend like that, a guided tour is a must, and it’s a great way to learn more about the food and the culture too. If we were staying in San Sebastián, this is the one we’d book:

🌟 The golden rule: try as many bars as you can, because each one has its own house specials that you can only get there. Our San Sebastián pintxo guide has the best bars, and whether a tour is worth it for you.

Evening—La Viña

End the night at La Viña. This iconic restaurant in the Old Town is where the famous burnt Basque cheesecake was first created in the 1990s—it’s since gone viral worldwide and for good reason. The perfect final stop on your first full day in San Sebastián.

Day 5: The Coastal Road—Hondarribia, Getaria & Zumaia

Your last full day, and arguably the most scenic. This coastal drive strings together three very different but equally rewarding stops—a medieval border town, a tiny fishing village with extraordinary seafood, and one of the most dramatic stretches of coastline in Spain. Take the N-634 coastal road rather than the motorway. The views along this route are stunning—rolling green hills, dramatic cliffs, charming towns. Driving this road slowly, stopping whenever something catches your eye, is one of the best things you’ll do on this whole trip.

Getting there: by car, east to Hondarribia first, then west along the N-634 coast road to Getaria and Zumaia.

Tickets: in Hondarribia, the City Highlights guided walking tour; in Getaria, Balenciaga museum tickets on its own website. Without a car, the Getaria txakoli tour from San Sebastián includes the transport, or there’s the coast tour below.

Not driving? A Basque coast day tour from San Sebastián

This guided coastal tour covers the best of Day 5 in one go—Getaria’s seafood and Zumaia’s spectacular flysch cliffs—without the stress of navigating unfamiliar roads. Check availability →

Morning — Hondarribia

Start with a 30-minute drive to Hondarribia—one of the prettiest towns on the Basque coast, right on the French border. It has a strong French influence and a charming cobbled Old Town surrounded by a medieval wall. Spend a couple of hours wandering through colourful buildings with wooden balconies, grabbing a coffee in the vibrant marina district, and exploring the old fortifications and narrow alleys. It feels like you’ve stepped back in time.

Late Morning — Getaria

On the way back west you’ll drive through Zarautz, with its long sandy beach. We only drove through, but with kids it’s the easy place to stop for a swim.

Drive on along the coast to Getaria—tiny, packed with character, and the place that genuinely stole our hearts on this stretch of coastline. It has two beaches, a small old centre, and some of the best seafood we’ve ever had. In season (May to August), you’ll find grilled sardines on every menu. Even though it’s small, we spent hours here just walking around, relaxing on the beach, and hopping between pintxos bars.

Getaria is also the birthplace of designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, and there’s a museum dedicated to his work if that’s your thing.

Afternoon — Zumaia

A short drive west brings you to Zumaia—all about nature, drama, and the Atlantic at its most powerful. The flysch cliffs here—layers of rock stacked like the pages of a book, part of a UNESCO Geopark—are some of the most extraordinary coastal scenery in Spain. Walk along the cliffs from Itzurun Beach and feel the full force of the ocean. This beach was also a filming location for Game of Thrones (also Dragonstone), so fans will definitely want to stop here too. Zumaia also has a second beach, Santiago, which is calmer and more family-friendly if you want a swim before heading back.

How it went for us: we drove this coast twice from Bilbao, one day for San Sebastián and one for Hondarribia, Getaria and Zumaia, driving through Zarautz on the way. Hondarribia was very nice as a town: we walked around the old town and along the city walls, came across a medieval parade, and finished at the marina and along the promenade. In Getaria it was after the sardine season, so we went from bar to bar for pintxos along the old town’s main street. Zumaia was a quick look at the cliffs.

Evening—Back to San Sebastián

Return to San Sebastián for your final evening. Wander the promenade at sunset, find a bar in the Old Town, and order more pintxos than you think is sensible. You’ve earned it.

Where to Stay in the Basque Country?

For this itinerary, that’s two nights in Bilbao and three in San Sebastián, flying home the morning after Day 5. Here are our picks in each city, as a couple and with kids, from our two where-to-stay guides:

In Bilbao—Bilder Boutique Hotel

Our pick as a couple. Bilder has 39 rooms at the edge of the Casco Viejo by the Arenal, with La Palma, its restaurant, downstairs, and reviews that praise its attention to detail. There’s no parking at the hotel, but guests get a discount at the Arenal car park, about 300 metres away, which helps when you have a rental car. €€

In Bilbao—7 Kale B&B

Our pick with kids. 7 Kale, on Calle Santa María in the Old Town, is run by Patricia and has triples, rooms for four and a two-bedroom suite, with breakfast included and free luggage storage, so your last morning in the city is stress-free. Cots are free, but children from three are charged as adults, and guests get a special rate at the Arenal car park. €€

In San Sebastián—Pensión Peñaflorida

Our pick as a couple. Pensión Peñaflorida is a small, owner-run pension in the city centre, less than ten minutes’ walk from La Concha, with elegant rooms and parking cards for the nearby Kontxa car park at a guest rate. It isn’t one for young families: it doesn’t take children aged seven or under, and there are no cots. €€

In San Sebastián—Hotel Tres Reyes

Our pick with kids and a car. Hotel Tres Reyes is a modern four-star in Miramón, a green residential area about 15 minutes by car from the centre, with family rooms, its own parking and buses into town for the evenings. It’s outside the low-emission zone, too. €€

One Base or Two?

This plan moves you to San Sebastián for the second half, so its evenings don’t end with an hour’s drive. We did it the other way, with one base in Bilbao for the whole trip, and with our son we’d probably do the same again.

How it went for us: we stayed at the ibis Bilbao Barakaldo, about 15 minutes’ drive from the centre, for its free parking and the price: our budget was about €70 a night, and we only went back there to sleep. Every day we drove into Bilbao or out along the coast, and San Sebastián and Hondarribia were day trips of about an hour each way. For a five-day stay with kids, that beats changing hotels and packing everything up.

It’s basic, like every ibis, so it suits money-conscious travellers with a car; our Bilbao guide has more on it. With kids, we’d look at an apartment first, so we don’t have to eat out for every meal: browse apartments in Bilbao →

⚡ Short on Time? Here’s the 3-Day Version

Three days isn’t enough to do everything, but it’s enough to do the most important things properly. Here’s how we’d cut it down:

Day 1: Bilbao

Artxanda viewpoint in the morning for the best introduction to the city. Casco Viejo and Mercado de la Ribera in the afternoon. Pintxos crawl in the evening. If you have energy, walk the Nervión and see the Guggenheim exterior at dusk.

Day 2: Guggenheim + Gaztelugatxe

Guggenheim Museum first thing in the morning—book your entry and, ideally, a guided tour in advance. After lunch, drive to San Juan de Gaztelugatxe—it’s about 40 minutes from Bilbao. Climb the 241 steps, ring the bell, and take in the view. Drive on to San Sebastián in the evening (about 1 hour from Gaztelugatxe). Check in and have pintxos in the Old Town.

Day 3: San Sebastián

Mount Igueldo in the morning for the view. Walk down along El Peine del Viento and La Concha beach to the Old Town. Spend the afternoon doing a pintxo crawl through the Parte Vieja. End at La Viña for the cheesecake.

🗓️ Got More Time? Here’s How to Extend to 7 Days

Two extra days give you room to breathe, go deeper into the countryside, and tick off a few more of the Basque Coast’s best spots. Here’s what to add:

Extra Day A—Gernika & the Urdaibai Reserve

Add this between Day 2 and Day 3 of the main itinerary as a second day out of Bilbao. Gernika is a town forever marked by history—bombed during the Spanish Civil War, it became an international symbol of the horrors of war and was immortalised by Picasso’s famous painting. Visit the Gernika Tree and the Meeting House, symbols of Basque self-governance and freedom, and take time at the Gernika Peace Museum. It’s more than a stop—it’s a meaningful experience. Combine it with Arteaga Castle nearby, a neo-Gothic fairytale building right in the heart of Urdaibai, and the Urdaibai Biosphere Reserve itself for a full day out of the city.

Extra Day B—Tolosa & Inland Basque Country

Add this as a day out of San Sebastián, before or after the coastal drive. Tolosa is one of the best day trips from San Sebastián for anyone interested in Basque culture and food. The town is famous for its Saturday market—one of the biggest in the region—with fresh produce, cheeses, peppers, and pastries. It’s also home of the beloved Tolosa black beans (alubias de Tolosa), and if you’re into hearty traditional dishes, this is the place to try them. About 30 minutes from San Sebastián by car or train.

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Practical Information

Getting There

Both Bilbao and San Sebastián have their own airports. Bilbao Airport has good connections to most major European cities. San Sebastián Airport is smaller—if you can’t find a direct flight, flying into Bilbao and out of San Sebastián (or vice versa) works perfectly for this itinerary and avoids any backtracking.

Getting Around—Rent a Car

Renting a car gives you the freedom to take the coastal road, stop whenever something catches your eye, and access the smaller villages that don’t show up on bus timetables. It’s also the cheaper way to see the coast. Group day tours from Bilbao to Gaztelugatxe cost about €50–100 a person for half a day and €90–230 for a full day, so for two people the Day 3 and Day 5 tours alone cost about as much as a car for the whole trip, or more, and for a family, far more.

How it went for us: we rented through DiscoverCars at Bilbao airport for the whole trip and paid about €200 for four or five days in September 2023, with full coverage. One night a scratch appeared on the car; nobody noticed it when we returned it, but that’s what full coverage is for. We used parking garages and the hotel’s car park, and parking was never a problem anywhere: there are plenty of signs, and Google Maps did the rest.

Flying home from San Sebastián? Dropping the car at its small airport usually adds a one-way fee; compare that with driving back to Bilbao airport, about an hour and ten minutes away.

Parking and low-emission zones: in both cities, use a car park near your hotel rather than the street; cars can’t enter Bilbao’s Old Town at all, so the Arenal car park on its edge is the easy option there. Both cities have a low-emission zone, and a rental car picked up in Spain will almost certainly be fine. San Sebastián’s covers the Old Town and the centre (foreign-plated cars register once online, valid to the end of 2027); Bilbao’s covers Abando, Indautxu and the Guggenheim side on weekdays from 7:00 to 20:00. Our San Sebastián and Bilbao FAQs have the details.

Best Time to Visit

The Basque Coast is genuinely worth visiting year-round, but the sweet spot is May–June or September–October. The weather is warm and pleasant, prices drop compared to summer, and the crowds are manageable. July and August are peak season—lively and fun, especially if you’re around for San Sebastián’s Semana Grande or Bilbao’s Aste Nagusia festival, but expect higher prices and more people everywhere. The coastal road is beautiful in any season, though spring and autumn give you the most dramatic light.

What to Pack

The weather along the Basque Coast can change quickly. Pack layers, sunscreen, and always check the forecast before heading out on a day trip. Rain is common—even in summer—so a light rain jacket is a smart move. Comfortable walking shoes are essential, especially for Gaztelugatxe’s 241 steps and the cliff walks at Zumaia. And bring an appetite. You’ll need it.

Final Thoughts: Is Five Days Enough?

Yes. In five days, this Basque Country itinerary fits both cities and two days on the coast without rushing, and if you have longer, the 7-day version adds Gernika and Tolosa.

Where you sleep is the bigger choice. Two bases, as planned here, make the most of San Sebastián’s evenings. With our son, though, we’d probably keep one base, as we did on this trip: for a five-day stay, an hour’s drive up and down the coast beats changing hotels and packing everything up.

The Basque Country is one of those places that rewards the traveller who slows down. The journey between Bilbao and San Sebastián—along the coast, through the fishing villages, past the cliffs and the vineyards and the medieval towns—is as much the point as either city. Drive slowly. Stop for txakoli at a roadside bar. Ring the bell at Gaztelugatxe. Eat sardines in Getaria. Watch the sunset from La Concha promenade.

FAQ: Basque Country Itinerary